Some people call me crazy.
I prefer the term, happy with a twist.
Well, that was a big one. Not thinking of waxing a board Jahteh?
I love watching the big wave surfing.The waves just amaze me. But I'd never try it.
Andrew, I only once stood up on a board and that was in 6 inches of water. Little pest came by and gave the board a push and I nearly drowned falling over. He apologised, saying he was only trying to help but if he'd held the board it would have helped.River, can you imagine being on the crest of that wave looking down, terrifying. I like to do my swimming in a pool where I can see the bottom.
Given my lack of proficiency in any kind of sport, I'll stick to big waves goodbye when people leave...
Miles, I can't believe you're not sporty. One of the secret big wave sites is in Tasmania and I'm sure it's safer than riding a bus.
I can imagine the thrill of being on the crest and I think surfing through the "tube" as the wave curls over would be fascinating. It's such an exciting sport. But I'm still never going to try it. at my age the last thing I need is broken limbs etc.
River, the last thing I need is to drown. It'd be like a roller coaster without the cart and crashbar.
These are great shots eh?
Caroline and Therese, all I can think of is the weight of that wall of water. I've been knocked over by a small surf wave standing in the shallows and that was scary enough.
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